The Story of Cosmetics

Annie Leonard from The Story of Stuff Project, explains the current debate on toxins lurking in our personal care products. She did an awesome job at illustrating the situation with great detail.

This situation is of interest to anyone who uses cosmetics, but particularly concerns us estheticians and other industry workers who are exposed to dozens of ingredients in our work place. I worry about what’s lurking in the products that I slather all over my hands while working on my clients, specially since it will continue to happen long term. I’ve been constantly taking action on a personal level by checking the safety of the ingredients on my personal care by using the Skin Deep database. While this is very productive and informative, it’s also super tedious. Why should I spend all of that time checking lists of ingredients? It’s way overdue for companies and the government to adopt the precautionary principle and put out safe products on the market.

Want to take action? Visit the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics website and show your support by writing a letter to your Member of  Congress.

Ingredient Spotlight: Salicylic Acid

Following up on my very basic article on exfoliation, this week’s ingredient spotlight is on Salicylic Acid, one of the most common chemical exfoliants used in skin care products.

• Salicylic Acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid and it’s most commonly used in acne fighting skin care products. It is derived from the bark of the Willow Tree, the same bark used in the makings of pain killers such as aspirin. Which would explain why some people like to prepare homemade aspirin masques to exfoliate their skin. I’ve never tried this, but many DIY skin care junkies swear by it. 
• Mainly added to products focusing on acne care, Salicylic Acid is known to help with treating breakouts. It can also be found in products that claims to brighten the skin, treat psoriasis, calluses, and many other skin conditions that improve with gentle exfoliation.
• It works by helping the cells of the epidermis to shed easily. This in turn opens up clogged pores and neutralizes any bacteria that may lurk around. As a result, it prevents pores from clogging up again, thus preventing congestion.
• Salicylic Acid is found in concentrations of 1-2% in over the counter products. If a higher concentration is to be used for skin care, it should be administered by a dermatlogist. People with allergies to salycylates should avoid this ingredient in their products. If your skin is sensitive start off using lower concentrations and gradually increase to avoid irritation.
• Why is Salicylic Acid so popular? It’s a natural and gentle option for exfoliation. It gives you the results sans the irritation that may produce other popular exfoliants like benzoyl peroxide.

Sources:

wikipedia.org

webmd.com

C’est la vie

As you may have noticed I’ve been gone for a long time. Life has been a little hectic lately while I adjust to my new schedule at work and fully commit to playing music. I’m not sure if I’ve mentioned it before, but while I’m not working in esthetics and beauty blogging, I’m play in a band. Recently we’ve been getting a lot of shows and we’re working on our record release. It’s so exciting, yet it leaves me with zero time for myself and my blogging habits. I even thought about just putting a R.I.P sign on my blog. Not to worry though, I’m going to try to do some posts when I get the time, just not as often as I would like. C’est la vie!

Exfoliation Basics

What is exfoliation?

Exfoliation is a process used to remove dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin, revealing the fresh, healthy skin underneath. Skin should be  exfoliated regularly to  avoid having a buildup of dead skin cells , which can lead to dry skin patches, peeling, and even aggravate congestion and acne.  By removing this buildup of dead skin cells, your skin will stay healthy and glowing. There are two different methods of exfoliation, chemical and physical.

Methods

Chemical: Loosens up the “glue” that binds dead skin cells together, thus making their removal easier.  Chemical exfoliators include: glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, alpha hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s), beta hydroxy acids (BHA’s), fruit enzymes, and chemical peels.

Physical: Removes the dead skin cells by using a skin abrassive and physically scrubbing the skin to remove the dead skin cells. Some examples of physical exfoliators are: scrubs, cloths, loofahs, seeds (ex. apricot ), sugar, salts. etc.

Choosing a method: Choosing an appropriate exfoliation method depends on your skin type, sensitivity, and how it reacts to certain ingredients in products. It’s also important to have in mind which body part that is  being exfoliated. For example, a pumice stone might be a good idea for your feet, but not necessarily for your face.

Precautions

Hair Removal: Most hair removal methods like waxing and chemical hair removers, also exfoliate the skin. Hair removal methods  remove dead skin cells along with the hair, so remember to take it easy with exfoliants before  shaving, waxing or using any kind of chemical hair remover.

Over-exfoliating: It’s also possible to over-exfoliate. You can tell when this has happened because after over-exfoliating your skin might be itchy, flaky and dry. When this happens, make sure that you moisturize the skin well, to help it repair itself.

Review: Nostalgia Organic Bath Soap

I have to admit that I’ve been splurging on little items that I’ve never heard off before ever since the Urban Outfitters Beauty shop launched. I’m so glad that they are carrying these amazing small companies, and that a larger audience will get to know their products.

This review is for the Nostalgia Organic Bath Soap in Goosebumps. How cute is that name? This little wonder is all organic and it’s scented with a warm blend of clove and apricot. The soap is bumpy, due to the apricot shells that ultimately exfoliate the skin. It comes wrapped in one of the most adorable packaging that I’ve seen, topped with a cute little bow (I love bows).

Usage: When I first used this soap it was a bit rough and difficult to manouver between my hands. The peachy bumps might feel a little bit rough on sensitive skin, but for my skin it was perfect.

Results: This soap quickly became a favorite, because it exfoliates those areas that might be dry and bumpy. In my case this would be around the back of my arms and thighs. Plus it has an incredible aroma! My bathroom just smells divine after using this.

This brand definitely knows how to create wonderful soap and dress it up in appropriate pretty packaging.  I’m such a sucker for good design! Check out Nostalgia’s super cute blog: http://www.nostalgia.typepad.com/

Price: $8.00

Get it: http://www.nostalgiaorganics.com/

Currently listening: ♪ Vivian Girls – Wild Eyes ♪

Art Deviation: Mischief Champion

I managed to scoop out beauty related artwork from Mischief Champion’s website.

The artist’s own words:

“Mischief Champion is a collection of regularly-updated drawings based on my every day observations. Sometimes these observations are harsh, sometimes silly. Somehow, they’re mostly rather insane.”

Currently listening: ♪Lali Puna – Scary World Theory♪

Review: 100% Pure Full Coverage Foundation with Super Fruits

I’ve been on a quest to find a good-for-you foundation that would match and even out my skin tone. This is it!

Usage: The product comes with a pump. It comes out liquid, but once applied it converts to a great velvety soft powder. There is no need to apply powder after putting this on, which is perfect, one less product to invest in! It has an SPF 20, provided by mineral sunscreens titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Results: I love how my skin feels with this on. The coverage is perfect. The foundation feels light and it gives a super even coverage. It also dries quickly, but good enough for it to be blended properly.

Shade: I have a medium (slightly olive) skin tone. My shade is Peach Bisque. It works like a charm. I like that it’s “peachy” and it just gives my skin a healthy glow without making it sallow like other foundations.

Packaging: The pump works really well. It’s not the prettiest packaging I’ve seen, but as long as what’s inside works, its all good.

Ingredients: Organic Aloe Barbadensis Leaf (Aloe Juice)1, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Extracts of Prunus Persica Fruit (Peach), Prunus Armeniaca Fruit (Apricot), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Bean) and Lycium Barbarum Fruit (Goji Berry), Euterpe Oleracea Pulp (Acai) Oil, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract (Pomegranate Oil), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C), Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Extracts of Organic Camelia Sinensis Leaf Ferment (White Tea)2, Coffea Arabica (Coffee Cherry), Aristotelia Chilensis (Maqui Berry), Vitis Vinifera Skin (Muscadine Grape), Garcinia Mangosteen Peel (Mangosteen), Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit (Acerola), Sambucus Canadensis (Elderberry), Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed, Lonicera Caprifolium (Japanese Honeysuckle)

SUNSCREEN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: 15% Titanium Dioxide, 10% Zinc Oxide

Net wt.1 oz / 30 ml

1 certified organic by SGS Organic

2 certified organic by Oregon Tilth Certified Organic

Price: $32

Get it: 100percentpure.com

Currently listening: ♪Blonde Redhead – Here Sometimes ♪

Ingredient Spotlight: Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a fat soluble antioxidant. It is typically found in product labels under the name Tocopherol. It’s often found in many nuts, vegetable oils, whole grains, and veggies like: asparagus and avocado. Eating these whole foods will provide the best and all natural source of Vitamin E, which is super beneficial for the skin. Some of it’s benefits include:

• Protects the skin from  sun damage.
• Some believe that it aids in scar and wound healing.
• Great preservative for natural/organic skin care products.

For more detailed info on tocopherols and publications related to Vitamin E use, make sure to visit:

smartskincare.com

vitaminbasics.com

Wood’s Lamp Party

Photo: DKNY + Dazed Digital

I’ve officially started my new job and so far I love it! Last week I was able to get my hands on a super old school Wood’s Lamp and play around with it.  A Wood’s Lamp is a machine that is used by dermatologists and estheticians, to view skin conditions that might not be visible to the naked eye. It shines ultraviolet light (aprox. 365 nanometers in wavelength) into the skin and if certain conditions are present, the skin will show diverse colors. According to Milady’s, skin conditions might be represented by these colors:

healthy skin: light blue

dehydration: light violet

oily areas/congestion: yellow / pink

sun damage: brown

dead skin cells: white

Our Spa’s Wood’s Lamp is a vintage version, the briefcase like box transforms into a huge photo-booth like contraption that can be placed on a table. The esthetician sits on one end and the guest sits on the other side and covers the area around the face with a curtain (yes, the machine has a curtain). This time I was the guest, my co-worker sat on the other side ready to examine my skin. The  UV light turns on and the area around my face turns into an instant rave. I’m able to see my own skin because there is a small mirror attached to the bottom of the machine.

The next part of the story is the real party. My normal healthy-looking skin transforms into a map of psychedelic colors. The first thing that I notice is the fair amount of sun damage and spots, the years of baking at the beach without sunscreen do get to your skin, even if it’s not visible to the naked eye. Next were the dreaded blackheads and congestion around the nose and chin. Finally, my forehead and cheeks we’re purple, which means that I was dehydrated (thanks coffee!). Three minutes after the skin analysis we decided it was time for moi to move on, chill, and get a facial.

Currently listening: ♪ Hearts Revolution – dance ti’l dawn ♪

Get a Life + Save the Planet

Vivienne Westwood has teamed up once again with Cool Earth to create a limited edition line of tablecloths. The tablecloths are made of 100% recycled polyester and cost £100,000 a piece.  All of the profits will be donated to Cool Earth’s campaign to preserve the endangered Peruvian rainforest that is home to the Ashaninka tribe. Pretty cool!

A part of me wishes that I could own one of these and support Cool Earth’s plan to save the rainforest. On the other hand, I prefer Westwood’s anti-consumerism messages and feel so inspired by the idea of just getting a life!  Achieving life’s full potential by interacting with your community and creating the world that wish to live in. If others can design cities, create beautiful art and live sustainably within their communities, why can’t I do the same? I’m glad that the general idea is being spread out and hope that one day we would all embrace the message.

Watch Dame Westwood’s interview with Cool Earth:

My fave quotes:

” We should get a life other that the one we are living now, we’ve all been trained to be consumers and to suck things up and therefore not to be engaged in the world we live in”

“Culture is a mirror of the world, it shows us humanity, it shows us who we are and the outlook we want on the world.”

Well said Dame Westwood!

Credits:

Vivienne Westwood

Tree Hugger

Cool Earth

Currently listening: ♪ LCMDF – Something Golden ♪